Reclining in Mawlamyine

Our journey towards Thailand takes us to Mawlamyine sited on the Thanlwin River, the longest in Myanmar. It is the third largest city but feels nothing like Yangon or Mandalay, it has a much more laid back feeling (relatively speaking). We're in the Breeze Rest Guest House which has a river view, but our room is a windowless box. Each evening on a terrace overlooking the river, several restaurants set up and you can while away the hours whilst watching the sun set.

An hours bus ride away is the worlds largest reclining Buddha, some 170m long. It is the dream child of the head monk here and has been reputedly built without the aid of an architect. It is surreal, a little religious, a lot Disney. Inside the Buddha are scenes from the Lives of the Buddha and heaven and hell. The head monk is sat at the bottom of the steps personally asking for donations.

Some research here alters the course of our trip and Thailand now seems a few days further off, we are informed we can travel south to an area previously closed to foreigners, more latterly only available with special permission. Now we can go but we have to travel at night. What exactly do the government not want us to see?